24.3.08

平遙。太原

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預先安排好在平遙的住宿,又請客棧到機場接機。雖然接機要三百塊錢,可是實在便捷;從太原機場直接到平遙的車程要一個半小時,如果數人同行那其實不貴。

住的是一得客棧,很是不錯。它位於小巷中,聽說屋子有二百八十年的歷史,只有十來二十個房間。跟大街上的客棧比起來它大概是小的吧,可是它清潔、清靜、幽雅,服務員(都是女子)都親切有禮。附設的餐廳很舒適,食物也可以;因為偏處一隅,光顧的大概都是住客,很安靜(除了一兩個搗蛋的孩子)。食物的價錢一看之下我嚇了一跳,二十到三十多塊一個小菜,三元一碗米飯,一點都不便宜,比起上一次我在北京三十多元便飽得要吐的那頓飯貴太多了。可是想深一層,北京那小館實在是髒,而一得的餐廳雅致舒適,讓人捨不得離開,兩者實在不能相比。兩天之內我在那兒吃了兩次晚飯、一次下午茶,雖然貴了點,但我很喜歡。(後來我看到大街上的客棧的價錢,覺得一得其實也不算很貴。)

至於那房間,二百八十元一晚,可住兩人,簡單舒適溫暖幽雅,實在不能挑剔。美中不足的是,那花灑無遮無掩地放在洗手間中間,跟客棧的網頁上看到的一樣,一洗當然就甚麽都會弄濕,所以教人躊躇,必須計劃好才洗澡,但是還好啦。

雖然喜歡一得的餐廳,可是也光顧過其他的食店。第二天早上因為那餐廳客滿,我覺得那麼貴也讓我等好沒意思,於是逛到大街上一家本地人光顧的小店(就是又髒又破店家蹲/坐在店前面煮食的那種),吃了一大碗豆腐腦(還加了一整個雞蛋)和一個成份不明的煎餅(大概就是當地人所謂的月餅),才五塊錢,飽飽。又在途中經過的青年旅舍吃三明治當午餐,地方、價錢和食物都OK。

只管說吃的住的,平遙本身又怎樣呢?我覺得這是一個灰濛濛、沙塵滾滾的地方。早上買了套票,票號、鏢局逐家逐家地去看,該去的我大概都去了,看得太多印象都混在一起了。

下午最後的節目是逛城牆。我逛過的城牆有南京的、有蘇州的盤門、還有杜布羅夫尼克的。跟杜市一樣,平遙也是一個完整的圍城,可是兩個城牆給我的感受迴然不同。逛杜市的城牆時風和日麗、藍天碧海,讓人覺得舒適自在;可是逛平遙城牆時天刮起大風,漫天沙塵撲面而來,垃圾隨風飛舞,勁風時寸步難行,我從南門經東牆走到北門,差不多三公里的路上前不見古人,後不見來者,念天地之悠悠,獨愴然而涕下(沙吹入眼啦)。

在平遙的便利店買東西,覺得物品選擇少,貨品都沾了塵,而且沒來由地找零錢有困難:買了三元二角的東西,我付十塊,店員竟說對不起零錢不夠,找給我六元五角和三顆糖果。我拒絕,最後她給了我一張斷為兩截再用膠紙復原的破爛舊二角鈔票。唉。(早知就應該收糖果,那鈔票又髒又破怎麼用)。在太原的便利店也是這樣,我付五元買三元的飲品,店員說要給我二十個一角的硬幣,我不要,她只好從自己的錢包掏兩元給我,臉色自然難看。幹零售生意的竟然沒零錢找,怎麼可以呢?平遙那便利店還有售價為1.85元的蒙牛酸乳飲品,不知他們打算如何找零,難不成找給顧客一顆半糖果?

遊走於平遙城的大街小巷,看見很多失修的房子,說得好聽是古舊,說得難聽就是破落,連日昇昌記這類主要觀光點也是破破的,門口一大幫流氓般的疑似工作人員聚集,東歪西倒地閒談笑鬧,所有自動入閘機都停用,厠所當然地差劣,拖完地的拖把就擱在門口當眼處滴乾,這就是在中國的世界文化遺產的情況。

乘巴士離開平遙到太原,在途中下車遊喬家大院。我的全部行李只有一個小背囊和一個手提包,雖然極爲輕便,但手中拿着包包始終不方便(包包不能背,不然肩疼)。經過一個檔攤,買了一個小的紅薯(水煮的,不是烤的),因爲一手拿着包包,難以剝皮,索性連皮都吃下了。喬家大院有五個院子和一個花園,院子看起來個個都差不多。我九時前到達,隨着我進來的是一團又一團的遊人,瞬間變得人山人海。我趕快逛完,趕快離開。然後回到公路,就在我來時的下車處等往太原的巴士。候車時再一次經歷沙塵撲臉的感受,不由自主地渴望有人停下來接我,又或是我能自動消失,置身他方。

平遙人和太原人視隨地吐痰為完全正常的一回事,前後左右全是隨地吐痰的人。太原的人吸煙的習慣極為嚴重,我得制止我的計程車司機抽煙,至於我住的那所謂全太原唯一一家五星級的山西國貿大飯店,人們在室內固然吸煙,連在禁止吸煙的升降機內也繼續吞雲吐霧。

太原市內實在無景可遊,我只去了Lonely Planet介紹的山西博物院,院內藏品豐富,值得一遊。

平遙人和太原人的服務態度十分落後,未達水平。我覺得好的只有機場內出入境管制的人員、收費公路的收費員和一得客棧的服務員,他們都懂得對顧客微笑和/或說謝謝。其他的人不是莫不關心(像山西博物院裏的人),就是像是我的債主似的(像便利店裏的人)。最不解的是五星級酒店的人,取房退房時都完全沒有說你好、請或謝謝,也沒有微笑。錦江集團的酒店雖然貌似香格里拉,但軟件差遠了。(不過不會說你好、請或謝謝也沒有微笑的服務員在大陸從來都不在少數。)

15.3.08

A drink

I went to the Dan Ryan's in TST just for a drink. I sipped my glass of Australian Cardonnay (the cheapest) and was happy. Then I looked around and saw that everyone in the bar area was either eating or waiting for his food. I was not hungry, but watching other people eat didn't feel right. So I looked at the menu, felt convinced that I was not hungry, and put down the menu; then I looked at it again, and put it down again. I told myself to leave real quick as I didn't need to eat. Then I looked at my watch and it was 5 o'clock. It was not so awfully wrong to order dinner at 5, was it? So I ordered a hotdog. There was no escape.

And the food was delicious, particularly the fries. Believe it or not, there were two whole green chilies/peppers in the hotdog and they were hot, which made the thing even more tasty.

On the menu there is a warning about the big size of the portion served. Some people obviously get very surprised when they see the food. There was this group of 5 noisy westerners (before their arrival the place was pretty quiet and comfy) who came in without really looking at the menu and ordered like 2 or 3 club sandwiches and 2 or 3 fries plus drinks. They were really taken aback when they saw the sandwiches. And one woman hastened to mouth to her friends "how much" and then grab the menu to take a look. It was such good fun watching them.

I am a regular drinker but the wine made me drunk, giving me red hot cheeks. And I find it hard to understand. I mean I don't get drunk at home. But perhaps if I get drunk at home I simply go to bed so I don't realise it. Anyways, I was full and drunk when I left the restaurant and I felt like a happier person.

9.3.08

Soup or Noodles?

One day my beautician told me that a certain brand of instant noodle was very tasty.  I heard it but did not really pay attention.  Then when I was at the supermarktet shopping today, I remembered what she had said and bought what she had mentioned.  It was pricer than what I was used to buying but I didn't mind trying it.

And it was good.  So good that I had to cook myself a second packet. I wrote to my friends immediately recommending the noodles. And guess what the first response was?  It was, "You mean the noodles or the soup base?"  And I was really stunned.  I had never thought that when you said some noodles were good, you had to make a distinction whether it was the soup base that was good, or it was the noodles themselves.  It's like when you eat a piece of cake and you tell your friend that it is good, then your friend asks you, "Do you mean it is the cream that is good? or is it the chocolate? or the fruit in it? or the sponge cake?"

Apparently my taste is not refined enough.

8.3.08

はる

春眠不覺曉。

電台的天氣報告說氣溫十六度。穿上衣架上掛着的厚針織上衣,披上皮外套,上街看電影去。在戶外才覺得天氣暖和,微風,感覺舒適。

看完電影在街上走,這才覺得皮外套實在不合時宜。遠眺公園的樹頂都開了紅彤彤的花……紅棉!

紅棉都開了,春天當然是到了。驚蟄也過了,三月二十日也就是春分了,一切都那麼理所當然。唯一讓我驚訝的是我竟然對春天不知不覺。往年常盼望紅棉快開花,今年竟然沒怎麼想過。不知是太冷的冬天讓人覺得春天遙不可及,還是不知怎的變遲鈍了。

2.3.08

二月裏看的電影

  1. Sweeny Todd:The Demon Barber of Fleet Street 魔街理髮師
  2. Enchanted 魔法奇緣
  3. PS I Love You 留給最愛的情書
  4. There Will Be Blood 黑金風雲
  5. The Kite Runner 追風箏的孩子 (看第二次)
  6. No Country for Old Man 二百萬奪命奇案
  7. Juno 少女孕記

乘飛機途中還看了:

  1. The Nanny Diaries
  2. L'Uomo Perfetto (Italian)
  3. Ensemble C'est Tout (French)
  4. Mrs Brown
  5. Odette Toulemonde (Belgian)